Bonsai tree care
Bonsai tree care: Bonsai, which translates to a tree in a pot, is an art form which develops from patience, care,
dedication and attention to detail.
Working, tweaking and caring for nature in such a way is a very enlightening experience, so get into it and become inspired.
Bonsai trees originate from the Chinese who have been shaping miniature trees for over 2000 years, however, it was the Japanese who simplified and refined the idea using a ‘less is more’ approach and focusing on a singular tree rather the Chinese regime of integrating a landscape and creating unnatural shapes and compositions.
Over time Bonsai trees have become either very expensive items to purchase or cheaply mass-produced versions through exportation, so as an enthusiast who wants to own their own beautiful specimen, they must either create it
themselves or purchase one from local growers then exercise great dedication through the right bonsai tree care methods.
Creating beautiful, elegant and small bonsai trees is no easy feat and requires vision and daily care from its owner to create the most exciting proportion, style and display.
These require the right tools and know-how, so check out our helpful points to steer you in the right direction for your bonsai tree care.
In this article, we will share a tutorial about how to care for a bonsai tree and best bonsai tree care. Here are the topics we will cover:
1. Basic about bonsai tree care
3. Watering Your Bonsai Correctly
6. Fertilizer Tips
9. bonsai wire
10. Repotting Guide
11. Right bonsai pot
How to care for a bonsai tree
If you’d like a bonsai tree care or whether you are thinking about having one but do not have sufficient understanding about it, you might want to familiarize yourself in prior to getting one.
You first need to learn the fundamentals of how to care for a bonsai tree and maintenance.
Taking care of bonsai trees is not as easy as caring for any other plant that requires the standard watering, sunlight exposure, as well as fertilizer. In actuality, it’s quite challenging as
it involves quite a few distinct elements beginning with the type of bonsai tree which you have.
Bonsai Tree Care Points:
Leaves need a certain amount of light in order to photosynthesize and nourish the plant.
The ideal spot would have to be close to a window where light is not obstructed by large trees, high walls or a roof overhang.
In saying that caution must be taken in the summer months as direct sunlight contains ultraviolet radiation which can be harmful to certain species at high levels especially as the bonsai tree’s pot can overheat too.
Using fine white shade netting or window blinds can create better light conditions. In the winter, however, even at one meter away from a window the amount of luminosity is reduced and can be too dark for the bonsai despite what our eyes tell us.
Turning a bonsai tree 90 degrees every few days so all areas of foliage can receive an equal amount of light is important
and locating the bonsai tree near a window but out of direct rays of sunlight is a good way forward for species that struggle with too much sun exposure,
especially as direct sunlight that passes through glass will provide greatly intensified heat.
In the winter you can supplement the natural light with artificial light for 1-3 hours a day using a timer (in the morning before sunrise, and in the evening after sundown).
Use fluorescent lights that use daylight and warm light ranges. These should be suspended between 10-30 inches above the plants.
Surprisingly it is more common for a bonsai to suffer from over-watering than drought, they generally (of course it depends on your tree) require moist soil that remains damp between waterings.
Unsure if your tree needs water? Gently scratch away the surface of the soil to see how moist it is underneath, if it is wet then it will require no further water otherwise if it is dry then it should be watered right away.
A good method for checking how much moisture is in the soil deep within the pot is the chopstick test. Pushing it right into the soil (careful to avoid any roots) and leaving it for 20 minutes.
Then remove and check the dampness of the stick. If the soil is completely dried out, use the immersion technique straight away.
Rainwater is best for all plants, but cannot be always accessible.
Tapwater has plenty of added chemicals for purifying and on occasions, higher quantities of chlorine could potentially be harmful.
To evaporate the excessive chlorine you can allow the tap water to stand in an open container for a few hours which also allows the temperature of the water to match the room and essentially similar to the bonsai tree roots.
Do not apply ice-cold water which can cause damage to the root system, however on hot day water that is a few degrees cooler can refresh the roots.
The trick is to water either in the early morning or in the evening to help reduce the risk of the roots being overheated.
Also, watering must be regular and relate to the bonsai species’ requirement for dry, moist, or wet soil, but also testing with the chopstick every day will help you gauge how often watering is required – it will vary year-round.
In order to remain healthy trees require fresh air. Poor circulation can affect the growth of the bonsai tree and can encourage fungal or bacterial spores.
During the winter months when heating is used indoors, creating an environment of 40-50% humidity is ideal which can be created through using a dehumidifier or even a tray of water near the bonsai tree or on top of/close to the heater.
To encourage good air circulation, bonsai trees should be placed roughly at waist-height preferably on their own stand indoors or on a slatted bench outside.
The benefits of placing the tree lower in a room keep the tree cooler than room temperature.
Outdoors, the tree will benefit in a higher position for safety reasons from predators however must be sheltered from the wind, while indoor draughts should be avoided.
Temperature.No plant was created for indoor living, therefore choosing the ideal bonsai should be affected by the type of environment you can provide it eg:
subtropical bonsai for growth within a cold house or a tropical species in a heated greenhouse.
Using free draining soil is essential so water can pass through the soil easily to prevent it from laying on the surface. In saying that,
the bonsai soil must be able to hold sufficient water to hydrate the tree until the next watering cycle through the use of large particles of organic or mineral materials.
So what soil should be used? The best commercial soil is Japanese ‘Akadama’. It holds water well, has excellent drainage and provides ample air space.
This can often be found in gardening outlets as part of a mix to make it more affordable, or else mixing your own soil can be the most beneficial as you can create something that suits your climate and bonsai tree care habits eg:
if you are not able to water twice a day during the summer months a soil that can retain more water would be a good way to go, or else if you live in a damp environment a free-draining soil would be best.
To make your bonsai kept in shape and to grow in a healthy and natural way, it must be fertilized at the correct height and the most suitable fertilizer. Learn when and how to fertilize your bonsai and get a real piece of natural art.
When to fertilize your bonsai
Generally, fertilize a bonsai should be done in early spring and late summer / early fall since it is at these times that a plant grows. Moreover, these are the two most important weather seasons throughout the year for plants. The essential aspects of proper fertilizing bonsai are:
In early spring, a bonsai should fertilize every week with the aid of liquid fertilizers. In the fall, it is necessary to use solid fertilizer for the soil to be enriched and that bonsai can survive the winter;
Whether you are a bonsai indoor or outdoor, before putting fertilizer on earth should always water your bonsai. Because if you do not, the soil is dry and this complicates the collection and absorption of nutrients;
During the months of plant growth, especially in March / April and in September / October, fertilization period should be extended to thirty days, to avoid overgrowth of the plant;
The caregiver should not fertilize a bonsai during the winter season, even during periods of the extreme heat of summer;
After the transplant vessel must wait a minimum of three to four weeks to get back to fertilize the soil of a bonsai;
Never fertilize a bonsai when it presents luscious leaves or has a sick look.
Types of fertilizer for your bonsai tree care
There are several types of fertilizers in order to properly fertilize the soil and to acquire the most appropriate, shall move to a drugstore or gardening store.
So, in case if you’re dealing with their first bonsai, can ask for help and advice from expert technicians. Of the various types of products that feed a bonsai, we highlight the following:
These hormones allow the plant develops his roots in a more solid and consistent. The powder hormones are known to be the most effective.
The liquid fertilizer:
liquid fertilizer is a product that dissolves in water and is applied at the time of watering of the bonsai. It is a product that acts quickly; it is very clean and easy to use. It is fertilizer which is most frequently used.
A solid fertilizer is a fertilizer that is placed directly in the soil of a bonsai and is applied uniformly, without being in contact with the tree trunk. It is a fertilizer that ensures a long-lasting effect, does not burn the plants and improves soil quality bonsai.
Bonsai Tree Care Methods
Bonsai tree care methods: This section is dedicated to helping you create the bonsai style you wish to achieve and find the right aesthetic for you.
Firstly, to help you decide which bonsai tree style to choose, we have compiled this useful image of the variety of styles, before divulging into the relevant methods for caring for your bonsai:
What is the importance of pruning for bonsai?–
A bonsai is a plant or tree that seeks inspiration from the forms of nature and its pruning is one of the most important aspects in the formation of a tree. Learn the importance of pruning for bonsai and customize it to your liking.
The art of bonsai is a form of human expression; it is the reflection of the way the caregiver relates to the surrounding reality and how to demonstrate your creativity in miniaturization of a certain tree of nature.
However, any type of bonsai is in constant development and its growth is not controlled, easily lose their shape and idea – hence the importance of pruning.
If any task gardening pruning is an important element in bonsai takes a fundamental component. Has a sculptural feature, it allows working as a tree, eliminates major defects of the plant, ensures the balance between root and shoot, and above all, contributes to greater longevity of a bonsai.
The best time to prune a bonsai
To maintain the visual harmony of a bonsai, it is necessary to prune the plant regularly throughout the year so that it is always present as a “miniature tree” in perfect condition.
The most radical pruning are those that should be done in late winter / early spring when new potting a bonsai. This is the best time to prune a bonsai because the months that follow are those that allow greater plant growth and bonsai tree care.
The end of autumn is also necessary to perform a maintenance pruning so that the plant can survive the rigours of winter.
Some practical advice for the correct performance of the pruning
For pruning your bonsai is done correctly, you should follow the following advice:
Note briefly your bonsai:
Must watch for some time the current state of your bonsai before you start your pruning should see the way he wants to give it.
Remove the excess branches:
Always remember the way you want to give your bonsai plant and go to work in this direction, removing the oldest branches that are in excess and exiting the brightness to younger and those who are too long.
Stay true to your idea:
If you have to sacrifice an important part of your plan for the sake of aesthetics of your bonsai – do it.
Cut the plant next to one of the main branches:
When cutting the leaves of a bonsai next to one of the main branches, is channelling the power plant for this area.
Use a paste of sealing for big cuts:
When pruning wounds are large (larger than the size of the little finger) is convenient cover with sealing paste to ensure their proper healing.
Look for a green way to give your bonsai:
To make her the most beautiful of all plant and for it to be visually pleasing, it is necessary to keep it as green and healthy as possible. Thus, your bonsai will be too bright and will stand out.
Some bonsai trees require pinching in order to keep the foliage areas neat, certain techniques are employed to reduce the size of the leaves and make the small twigs denser – essentially giving your tree a haircut.
Every time a shoot is pinched a new, small one will grow from the bud at the base of the leaf.
bonsai wire for best bonsai tree care
To shape your bonsai you must coil wire of appropriate thickness around a branch and the two together can then be bent.
The simple process of wiring allows the branch to thicken but remain compressed creating a more dense wood which will remain in place once the wire has been removed.
Introduction to wire bonsai for best bonsai tree care
This post is a brief introduction to the art of bonsai wiring, we shall see in-depth how to do it properly with a more comprehensive and detailed guide.
When we shape our bonsai to achieve the shape we want, sometimes pruning is not enough and we must resort to wiring.
This technique involves placing wire around the trunk or branches of bonsai and keep it until acquires the desired shape.
Consider the different types of wire that you can use and what type of bonsai work best:
The wires of copper or anodized aluminium are the most popular. Anodizing is a protective coating by chemical and electrolytic processes.
The wired annealed copper is the most recommended for conifers. It’s placed on the branches and hardens over time.
Provides an ideal place at precise locations branches carrier, however, when removed can damage the bark.
The soft aluminium wire is perfect for deciduous species, and it will not damage the bark extraction.
The thick copper wire must be annealed before use.
This is the best option available. Both the thin copper wire as soft aluminium is reusable.
Wires are available in various diameters to suit different uses and are classified by thickness.
Those between 12 and 20 are the most common.
A larger number is finer. Select a thickness which is one-sixth to one-third of the width of the branch or trunk to form. If you cannot bend, use one-third of the thickness.
NOTE: Do not wire entangled, always save it in rolls. Prior attempts to use a wire that is at a warm temperature, when cold they are hard to handle.
When wiring a bonsai?
The best time to wire a bonsai to thrive is when the sap circulates and correctly.
Undoubtedly, this implies that the best time is the summer.
Note that the soft and full bark sap increases the risk of injury, carefully wired.
Some bonsai defoliate in cool temperate climates although it is easier to wire a plant without leaves, waiting for the plant to grow again in the spring or early summer.
Re-potting Bonsai Trees
Generally speaking, young or small bonsai trees require repotting every two or three years, older/larger specimens less often.
Repotting should be undertaken if there is a slow passage of water through the soil, slowing of growth or if the roots look like a coconut-fibre mat when the tree is eased from the pot.
Repotting is traditionally carried out during autumn, but there is no
precise timeframe as it just depends on the type and age of the bonsai tree.
Repotting in autumn does run the risk of roots failing to heal and regenerate before winter meaning they must be kept frost-free and watering minimized until spring.
Choosing the right Bonsai pot shape
When looking for the right pot it must have plenty of drainage holes, a level base and small feet to allow excess water run-off. Aesthetically the size and shape of the pot suit different styles of bonsai, so choose wisely there is a diverse range to choose from
Types of bonsai trees
Bonsai Trees Types
There are various sorts of Bonsai trees one can develop. Before you choose a tree, it is prudent to learn as much as one can about the tree’s fundamental necessities and corrections required to develop them as a bonsai.
Following is a rundown of not many bonsai trees types
Azalea Bonsai: Azalea Bonsai is the most widely recognized type of bonsai known, and best for a beginner. The azalea has beautiful blossoms that highlight the bonsai’s excellence.
It ought to never be set in full sun, and should be encouraged with appropriate compost before sprouting begins.
Japanese Maple Bonsai: A shade cherishing bonsai, the Japanese maple bonsai tree is prominent for its fragile foliage that turns a frightening shade of red, orange or yellow.
It is anything but difficult to shape in an ideal style, anyway, all pruning and styling ought to be done in spring.
Fukien Tea Bonsai: Fukien Tea bonsai tree is a little variety of tropical trees that ought to be put in direct daylight for not over 60 minutes.
As the leaves on the shoots are very minor, one can wire new shoots to shape the tree. It ought to be re-pruned every 2-3 years, in late-winter.
Pomegranate Bonsai: One of the favoured deciduous bonsai trees, the pomegranate can be a significant beautiful expansion to your bonsai assortment, with its brilliant green little leaves, red trumpet formed blossoms and minor round orange-ish red decorative natural product..
Magnolia: A Magnolia is principally a moderate developing bush, that can be developed as a bonsai. This one requires tolerance, for it will be a decent 25-30 years before it starts to endure blooms.
The blooms are star formed and white. Without any leaves on Mongolia, the blooms look amazingly sensational on the bonsai.
Blooming Crabapple: Any apple species would look extraordinary as a bonsai, however, the blossoming crabapple beats them all with regards to outright excellence.
One can give various styles a shot crabapples as well, in spite of the fact that the upstanding proper sort is increasingly supported.
The tree bears white, pink or red blooms and modest green-red acrid apples. They also are an incredible decision for apprentices.
Bougainvillea Bonsai: This flexible tree or bush, with its differed hued blossoms and splendid green foliage, is one of the most inexhaustibly discovered bonsai in most plant nurseries.
They are anything but difficult to deal with and will develop genuine quick.
They can possibly be styled in a falling way, and are one of only a handful scarcely any ones that appreciate the full sun.
The word bonsai comes from the Japanese and is translated as a tray (bon) and nature (sai).
The term refers to the art of growing trees by a significant decrease in its size from a specific set of techniques.
Considering the style of bonsai can be classified into:
COLLIDE: This type of bonsai has a straight trunk angle with a profile similar to a triangle.
MOYOGUI: the moyogui bonsai is a class in which a log is observed target contour, without the characteristic straight.
Shakan: shakan trunk has the particularity of being tilted about 45 degrees maximum. It also has a triangle-shaped profile.
Kengai: this kind of bonsai trunk presents the top underneath the edge of the container in which it is placed.it means which holds a manner analogous to a vertical style, but arranged inversely.
The term cascade Kengai means.
HAN Kengai: this concept is translated as semi-cascade. In this case, the top of the stem is positioned below the upper edge of the pot, but above its bottom.
Fukinagashi: the figure of this kind of bonsai trees intended to represent those that have been developed on a mountain where the wind blows loud and in the same direction.
Because you look at the whole tree tilted sideways. The concept is of fukinagashi means windswept.
NEAGARI: here the roots of bonsai can be seen with the naked eye. Trunks adopt any of the above forms. Neagari mean exposed the root.
Bunjin: bunjin trunk is slender and the mass of the tree is virtually nonexistent.
According to the height you can reach is classified as:
SHITO KESHITSUBO O: has a maximum height of five centimetres.
MAME is said that it is possible to move it in the palm of your hand, and its height ranges from 5 inches los15.
Shohin: this kind of bonsai has a minimum elevation of 15 inches and a maximum DE21 inches.
Komono: bonsai whose height ranges from 21 inches Los40.
CHUMONO: this name to distinguish those trees whose growth has a minimum height DE40 centímetrosy a maximum of 80.
Omoño: bonsai refers to reaching a height greater than 80 inches.
Bonsai tools (bonsai tree care kit)for bonsai tree care
Caring for a bonsai requires very few tools. These do certain jobs or tasks easier and faster, reducing the time to care for a bonsai.
The range of quality (and price) in tools is immense and it is suggested to buy the best basic set of tools you can afford.
Eventually, appreciate this decision and if you care to look after them they will last a long, long time.
You will need a pair of scissors. These allow you to make fine cutting work in a small space. These scissors should be sharp and should be used to care for bonsai.
You can start with a small set of scissors.
Possibly the most important tool you need to have a growing bonsai, are a pair of concave cutters. These blades allow you to make cuts tree branches and leave behind a concave wound, the wound is much faster than a straight cut heals.
Eventually, you will need a pair of wire cutters, but need not be acquired immediately. Using cables to hold and shape your bonsai is likely to have to cut at some point.
These wire cutters allow you to cut the wire to the bark without damaging it. These are also essential. You’ll also want to have several different thicknesses of wire. In general, anodized copper wire is the most recommended for wiring a bonsai.
It is very flexible, so that it folds up, and can then use this maintains its position. She used to scheme position trees branches.
Once you gain experience and knowledge in the care of a bonsai will be a few more tools you want to add to your toolbox.
Knobs cutters are very similar to the concave cutters, except that they have a spherical head, which allows you to cut branches and leave a small recessed scar.
A folding saw is a useful tool for larger cuts than the diameter of either concave or knob cutters. These are especially important when working with large trees.
Small scissors are ideal for working with very small bonsai or very slow growth, which is difficult to reach with large scissors, Indispensable to care for a small bonsai.
A root rake is used to remove dirt from the root ball before transplanting. It Is used to gently comb roots and to clean the surface.
Finally, a simple pair of tongs, These can be extremely useful in styling bonsai Tweezers have all sorts of effects on bonsai from pinching back new growth to pruning to remove unwanted objects from your bonsai.
Most forceps have a small bonsai palette at the end, useful for patting moss, sowing seeds…
Now that you have the tools to start caring for a bonsai, what about the tree? Should I start from seed or buy one? You can actually do either option…
Generally, the pot or container that houses a bonsai form a visual whole with the same and is intimately related to the style, the foliage and trunk.
Good taste is not enough to determine the colour, shape and size of the pot.
There are elements of bonsai which are crucial when choosing the base.
What this course does not talk about initial optical weight, character, shapes and depths. This topic is for a later course or for you to investigate the matter.
A general guide to every style of a tree maybe this:
Cascade or semi-cascade: deep pots that represent the environment in which they develop. Also, counteract the weight of the aerial part.
Forests or groups: shallow pots. This style is often accompanied by a slab or flat to highlight the stone set.
Writers: they may be angled as small square pots, hexagons, etc.
A general guide to determine the size of the pot is for best bonsai tree care:
The height should be equal to the diameter of the base of the trunk and along 2/3 of the height of the tree when it comes to tall trees and an equal proportion when we have trees more important than height glass.
Colour: As the colours, we must, as a general rule, choose soft colours that blend with the foliage, trunk and flowers and fruits.
For heavy-bearing trees or heavy foliage and large size, we can choose a dark colour without paint and the surface can be rough or smooth surface detail.
For deciduous trees is advisable to use light colours such as terracotta, light brown sand, preferably without varnish.
For potted conifers, matte or glossy varnish and orange, coffee, and may be used.
Everyday life presents us with the reality in different shapes and shades. It depends on the eyes of the soul to appreciate them wisely.
Avoid This Mistake That Can Kill Your Bonsai Tree
Do you realize what is the most well-known reason for the death of bonsai trees? In all honesty, this is unseemly water.
The vast majority believe that water ought to be at least when, truth be told, for bonsai trees, this is the most significant thing you can do and not do it effectively.
Truth be told, inappropriate water slaughters more bonsai than all else.
Bonsai trees have their underlying foundations in unique soils which are permeable and have speedy seepage.
Therefore bonsai ought to be watered oftentimes, be that as it may, water ought not be dealt with as standing water can cause parasite and add to root spoil.
Here are a few stages you can take to abstain from giving water submerged or to your bonsai:
To decide if your bonsai requires water, you should test the dirt to perceive how wet it is.
Contact the highest point of the dirt with your finger and in the event that you feel that the dry burrowing is somewhat more profound, at that point to perceive how far the dryness has gone.
In the event that you need a progressively precise strategy, you can purchase a dampness measure that takes in soil and will disclose to you what water is required.
It is a decent practice to set the compartment that you are in a pail of bonsai water with the goal that the water can be doused from base to top once like clockwork.
Enable the water to splash for 20 minutes and afterwards evacuate the pot. Continuously lift by the holder and ensure from the storage compartment of the tree.
Your holder ought to have waste openings at the base and a plate at the base to hold overabundance water.
In the event that you invest a lot of energy pooling water in the plate, you can make certain to deplete the water, with the goal that it doesn’t gather from the roots that are spoil causing and add to the development of the form.
At the point when bonsai is developing during spring and summer, you need to guarantee day by day watering that the water streams out of the whole holder and out of the base yet less that it remains in the water.
You may really need to water more than once a day relying upon the dirt just as the types of tree in your atmosphere. In the fall and winter when development has hindered you won’t require so a lot of water.
A few sorts of bonsai, for example, blossoms and deciduous trees require more water and different sorts, for example, conifers require marginally less.
You need to try to realize what is the perfect measure of water for your bonsai. Be watchful for blossoms and twisted leaves that may show water shortage and alter in like manner.